Who: Alberto Nanclares and Silvia Prieto.
What: D.O. Rias Baixas.
Where: Cambados, Pontevedra, Galicia, Spain.
When: Since 1997.

The Story

Alberto Nanclares is an economist by training and profession whose love of sailing brought him to the Galician coast many years ago. He and his wife invested in a small second home near their boat and then fell in love with the land. The place they chose was a few minutes, a few hundred metres, from the sea in the heart of the Val do Salnés sub-region of the Rias Baixas D.O, where the grape Albariño is native.

Alberto started to look after the land surrounding their home on the weekends and making wine in the garage. At first he farmed conventionally, simply following the practices of other producers, large and small, in the neighbourhood. But he soon became uncomfortable applying chemicals to the vineyard that was in effect his back-garden and so he stopped and figured out to work organically, the challenge being the climatic conditions of humidity from rainfall and the Atlantic Ocean. However, it had been done before, centuries before, so it was a question of undertaking a different, slower way of working. Once he’d started farming organically he noticed differences in the wines, greater clarity of flavour expressing the region key characteristic, the sea, more freshness, more life in the wines. Thus Alberto became a pioneer of organic farming in the Rias Baixas and served as role model to future winegrowers like Nacho Gonzalez at La Perdida and Bernardo Estevez.

Eventually Alberto chose the land over the boat, retired from his job in Madrid, and became a full time winemaker.

The Rias Baixas has had a renaissance over the last 30 years. Several centuries ago, the wines were exported like those of the Ribeiro to Northern Europe. Following war and phyllorexa and much emigration from what became an isolated and very poor region winemaking was reliant on hybrids and the maladapted Palomino grape during the twentieth century until funds arrived for the re-generation of the region with the entry of Spain into the EU. This is an almost rare instance where an indigenous grape, Albariño, has been blessed and re-planted to great effect. The wines are atypical of Spanish wine being white and high in acidity and full of fruit. They became a smash in Madrid and on the export market, albeit, s usual, the market was dominated by big brands working industrially.

Alberto Nanclares, along with very few others, has sought to craft a much gentler, more natural version of this wine. He now works 14 vineyards comprising just five hectares in total. The vines are trained in the classic pergola style which both aerates the vines and allows for other farming to take place at ground level (although few people need to double up on land use today). The soils are fertilised with compost made from seaweed that Alberto picks up nearby, as well as from used grape skins leftover from fermentations.

In the cellar, Alberto works simply. Natural yeasts are used, and no additives are used except a light dose of sulphites both to stop the malo-lactic fermentation and to ensure perfect cleanliness in his already pristine cellar. He uses both stainless steel and old wood for fermentation and ageing. The wines are bottled in the Spring.

Alberto makes quite a wide range with two very different entry level wines, one mineral, one fruity and a range of single vineyard wines that are each magnificent, with a startling energy and depth of flavour.

In 2008, Alberto’s oenologist advised him to change his 2004 Radoux foudre, in which he makes his sublime Soverribas Cuvée. Alberto’s response was to change his oenologist. The wines come first.

アルベルト・ナンクラレスはエコノミストでしたが海を愛するセーラーでした。それがきっかけで彼はこのガリシアの土地にやってきました。彼と彼の妻は彼らのボートの近くの小さな土地を別荘として購入しこの土地を大変気に入ってきました。この土地こそが海岸から数百メートルのDOリアス・バイシャスのサブリージョンであるヴァル・ド・サルネスの中心でありそしてアルバリーニョ の土地でもありました。
リアスバイシャス はここ30年で変革を遂げました。数世紀前、ワインはリベイロのワインとともに北ヨーロッパに主に輸出されていました。戦争やフィロキセラの発生等により20世紀中はほぼこの土地にはそぐわないハイブリッド種やパロミノへの植え替えが余儀なくされました。
スペインがEUに加盟した1980年以降にこの土地は変革しました。もともとこの土地の土着品種であるアルバリーニョ が再度植えられ1980年に特定呼称アルバリーニョ 、1988年にリアスバイシャス DOが認定されこの土地は復活を遂げました。アルバリーニョ が持つ果実味と高い酸味はマドリードと輸出の市場で一躍ヒットをしその後大手ブランドがこの土地でひしめくようになりました。

セラーにおいてはいたってシンプルです。自然酵母を使用しマロラクティック発酵をとめるためとクリーンさを保つために極少量の二酸化硫黄を添加する以外何も行いません。 醸造はステンレスタンクと古樽を使用し熟成します。


Nanclares y Prieto Location